In the footsteps of history: A stroll along Duolun Road (多伦路文化名人街)

For CNNGo: Shanghai


Hidden just to the south of Hongkou’s Lu Xun Park is a half-mile stretch of road bursting with historical and cultural significance. Duolun Cultural Street (多伦路文化名人街) was inaugurated in 1998 as an outdoor museum of 1920s-style architecture and a monument to the city’s literary history. It was here that the league of Leftist Writers was founded in 1930 and the street was a hub of a movement of revolutionary thought that included Chinese cultural celebrities such as LuXun, Xu Qiubai, Guo Moruo and Mao Dun.

Life-size bronze statues depicting the famous individuals who form part of Duolun’s heritage, such as the statue of Rou Shi (柔石) (above), are found along the street. Rou Shi was one of the five martyrs of the Left Union killed by the Kuoming Dang in 1931.

The League of Leftist Writers Museum, located just off the main street at number 2, lane 201, preserves for posterity the hall in which the league was founded. The museum is open from 9 am to 11:30 am and 13:00 pm to 16 pm, Tuesday through Sunday.

Much of the street’s charm stems from the fact that life continues as normal inside this ‘living museum.’ Here maintenance work is carried out in front of the historic Kong residence, one of Duolun’s many architectural attractions. The former residence of Kong Xiangxi, built in 1924, features an Islamic building style.

Examples of the typical Shanghai architecture of the 1920s, an amalgamation of imported ideas mixed with traditional practices driven by a booming contemporary exchange of goods and ideas, can be found along the street. In the photo on the left, a former student’s dormitory includes an arch-lined outdoor corridor on the first and second floors, and in the photo on the right, a 1920s house build in the Renaissance style features ionic columns at its entryway.


The Hong De church, build in 1928, is a rare example of a Christian church build with Chinese architectural styles. The church is a popular location for wedding and other photo shoots due to its unique appearance and spiritual meaning.

The Koala International Youth Hostel is located in a historic building that was once a private club. Cheng Ying (陈影), left, and Xu Yifang (徐依芳) say they come to the hostel frequently for lunch because they enjoy the relaxed atmosphere inside.

The rooms of the hostel are all individually decorated, reflecting period styles.

The street, dotted with slices of culture and history (such as the Chopsticks Collection Hall or the Old Movie Café) and small antique and trinket shops, seems a world away from the bustling thoroughfare of Sichuan Lu, which runs parallel.

The fact that it is a little off the beaten path definitely contributes to the street’s charm. Wandering into the small lanes lining can provide a sense of peace and quiet that sometimes seems hard to find in Shanghai. Duolun is a surprising oasis of calm, culture and heritage hidden in Hongkou.

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Great Wall Sunset (长城日落)

Great Wall Sunset

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Shooting Huangshan

For CNNGo: Shanghai


It is hard to understate the allure of China’s most famous mountain. According to the Chinese saying “五岳归来不看山,黄山归来不看岳,” after Huangshan there is little need to visit another mountain. The UNESCO World Heritage site is known for its towering granite peaks, pine forests, hot springs and ‘cloud seas.’ Since the Tang Dynasty, the mountain has been immortalized in art, literature and religion, for instance the mountain and water style (山水) paintings of the 16th century. With such a rich history, photographing the mountain can be an intimidating experience for the casual visitor, so I offer some tips for bringing home a better album from the famous mountain.

Huangshan - mountains and plants, foreground and background

The Rules of Photography : Foreground and Background

Huangshan is not a single mountain but really a whole range of mountains with several peaks reaching more than 1800 meters above sea level. It can be hard to communicate in a photo the sense of scale and grandeur that the peaks inspire in person. One way is to use foreground elements, such as flowers and people, to introduce a sense of scale into the picture. In this photo, the branches and flowers in the foreground provide a contrast with the ranges of mountains extending into the background.

Huangshan - Porters climbing stairs

The Rules of Photography: The rule of thirds, repetition and leading lines

One of the basic principals of photography is the rule of thirds. If the photo was divided into nine equal parts with two horizontal and two vertical lines, the focal point (or the main point of interest) should fall on one of the four points where the lines cross. Here, the face of the closest porter is located, approximately, at the lower right third.
Other ways to make photos interesting are to use repetitive elements, such as these two similarly dressed porters, and leading lines, like the line of stairs to draw the viewer through the frame.

Huangshan - Clouds silhouette

Use the light

Huangshan is famed for its ‘cloud seas,’ which surround the peaks creating islands from mountains. By exposing for the sky, a photographer can throw the peaks into darkness, silhouetting the mountains and creating a dramatic image of the clouds.

Huangshan - crowds

Show the crowds

While, most often, photographers want to replicate the ancient Chinese paintings, portraying a peaceful and serene scene, crowds are an integral part of the tourist experience. Popular landmarks, such as Welcoming Guest Pine, can be just as crowded as the Shanghai metro at rush hour and it is important to preserve this part of the Huangshan experience as part of your photographic memory.

Huangshan - root textures

Look for textures and details

It is tempting to always be looking toward the heavens, but sometimes interesting photos can be found down at your feet. Look for small detains in flowers and stones, and textures and patterns in roots, leaves and shadows for a different take on Huangshan’s scenery.

Huangshan - waterfall

Slow it down

While in general, you want to photograph with a shutter speed of at least a sixtieth of a second in order to freeze the action, sometimes blur can provide a sense of movement. If you photograph a waterfall with a lower shutter speed, using a tripod or other form of stabilization, you can produce a picture with a dreamy flow of water rather than tack sharp droplets.

Huangshan - locks

Focus on your memories

Many Huangshan visitors bring a lock in order to leave something permanent behind at one of the mountain’s peaks. However, the hikers motto is: leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but memories. Modern portable cameras make it easier and easier to preserve your unique memories of the mountain without impacting the beautiful scenery. Rather than simply trying to replicate what you imagined Huangshan would look based on other people’s pictures, the most important photography rule is to follow your own instinct and photography what is important to you.

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Midi Festival, Shanghai - 上海迷笛音乐节

Dan Shapiro of The Fever Machine performs during the 2011 Shanghai Midi Music Festival in Pudong's Century Park. 上海迷笛音乐节

Dan Shapiro of The Fever Machine plays during the 2011 Shanghai Midi Music Festival.

For a photo gallery I made on fashion at the festival see:
http://www.cnngo.com/shanghai/life/shanghai-midi-festival-fashion-531577

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India: First Installment

I have an overwhelming number of photos from my trip to India and southwestern China in January, so I’ve decided to break the editing work into a couple of installments. This first installment covers the first ten days of the trip in Delhi and the surrounding area and then the three Rajasthani towns of Jaipur, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur.

Plane wing sunset

The sun sets over the wing of my China Southern Airlines plane on the way to India.

A view of the city of Delhi from the top of the Jama Masjid mosque.

The cityscape of Old Delhi as seen from the top of the A view of the city of Delhi from the top of the Jama Masjid mosque.

India Agra Taj Mahal Couple

Two men relax together in front of the Taj Mahal in Agra, India.

Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory Jaipur, India

he fourteen major geometric devices of the Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory in Jaipur, India were built in the early 1700s for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking stars in their orbits, ascertaining the declinations of planets, and determining the celestial altitudes.

Two monkeys at Galwh Bagh in Jaipur, India.

Two monkeys at Galwh Bagh in Jaipur, India.

Mehrangarh Fort Jodhpur India

A view of one of the inner courtyards of the Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur India.

Camel on the street in Jodhpur, India.

A camel walks down the street in Jodhpur, India.

Indian train couple sleeper class

A couple relax on the train between Jaipur and Bombay.

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A day at the marketA day at the flea market (公益跳蚤会)

For CNNGo: Shanghai

Every month a different kind of market takes place at the 1933 creative hub in Hongkou. The event, which is organized by Gongyijia (公益家), focuses on arts and crafts, and second hand, repurposed and recycled items. Proceeds from the event go to help migrant schoolchildren. The idea is to make charity fashionable, make friends and share the kindness, said event volunteer Nicholas Tang (唐子建).

Fur Coats on the wall at the Gongyijia (公益家) Flea Market at the 1933 creative hub in Hongkou, Shanghai, China.

CNNGo Hongkou flea market lady beading red thread

CNNGo Hongkou Flea Market necklaces

CNNGo Hongkou flea market cat on head

CNNGo Hongkou Flea Market window view calligraphy

To find out the date of the next market visit http://site.douban.com/gongyitiaozao/ (in Chinese).

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Caring for Shanghai's homeless cats

After writing about the Shanghai’s pampered dogs for CNNGo, I am hoping to turn my attention toward the city’s feline site. Here are some photos from my first two preliminary shoots of two ladies who have dedicated themselves to caring for the city’s homeless cats.




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Shanghai Sunrise

Shanghai Sunrise Air Pollution

Between towering apartment buildings, the sun rises through the Shanghai smog.



I moved to Shanghai during the time of the Expo and, I don’t know if this is a coincidence or not, but it seems to me that as soon as the Expo finished air quality got much worse, sometimes visibility is reduced to 10 percent of its normal level. I see many more people wearing masks. I wonder if they really do much good.

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An Eastern Christmas

For CNNGo: Shanghai


CNNGo Shanghai Christmas Scenes Peninsula Hotel tree

CNNGo Shanghai Christmas Scenes Underwear Models Christmas in Shanghai is a predominantly commercial affair. The most common places to see decorations are in shops, restaurants and hotels. These range from the simple Santa hat-clad models in the window of Wanghua Underwear Shop on Handan road (left) to the meticulous decorations of the Bund-based Peninsula Hotel. The hotel features a tree adorned with decorations sold to raise money for various charities (above), a tradition of the worldwide chain since 2003, and a gigantic gingerbread village.

CNNGo Shanghai Christmas Scenes Peninsula Hotel gingerbread village train

CNNGo Shanghai Christmas scenes santa German Christmas market A team of 22 Peninsula Shanghai chefs and five designers worked for four months designing and building the gingerbread village, within included two trains, a cable car, a chocolate fountain, a windmill and, of course, Santa and his nine reindeer.

At Paulaner Brauhaus’ German Christmas market, Santa made the rounds handing out sweets to visiting children (and adults) between stalls selling Christmas crafts and glǔhwein. Former Berliner, Jonas Schorr said the market made him feel like he was home. “You need something like that to feel that it’s actually Christmas abroad” Schorr said, “something that reminds you so strongly of your own culture.”

CNNGo Shanghai Christmas Scenes German Market rabbit seller

But the market also had a distinctly Chinese feel. At a craft tent, Xiaohong Lü sold rabbits clad in Christmas capes. The toys served two purposes since after Christmas the cape could be removed in honor of the year of the rabbit, which arrives in early February.

CNNGo Shanghai Christmas Scenes Yuyuan Gardens market decorations store

In the shopping area near Yuyuan Gardens the scene was not nearly so serene. Customers packed into the tiny shops surrounding the market to search out the best deals on the myriad of Christmas decorations on sale there.

CNNGo Shanghai Christmas Scenes The Bridge decorations silhouette

Little festive touches could be found all around Shanghai, like the strings of snowflakes adorning a wall at The Bridge office and shopping complex on Central Jianguo Street.

CNNGo Christmas Scenes Santa reading

Shanghai residents are not the only ones who are normally scheduled to work on December 25, but this Santa found time to read a book while waiting for customers in Wanda Plaza mall at Wujiaochang Shopping Center. Santa will be on location to take photos with children until the end of December.

CNNGo Shanghai Christmas Scenes Nanjing Lu tree

At the Christmas display outside Nanjing Xi Lu’s Westgate Mall, seven-year-old Fang Liu stopped to admire the festive decorations. While the shopping street is the first stop on many people’s holiday list, its elaborate displays are simply a reminder of the festival cheer present across the city.

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Shanghai Tails

For CNNGo: Shanghai


CNNGo Dogs meetup Haibao statue kiss

Huijin Ge kisses her dogs Simba and Little Grey before the start of a dog owners meetup at Hua Ting Village.

“Shanghai is different from the rest of China,” said ShanShan Su, a dog-grooming specialist at MeiYu Pet Salon in JingAn. “Everywhere else people see dogs for their utility, here they are part of the family.”

This familial connection was on display at a recent Shanghai DogNet meeting at Hua Ting Village, where more than 200 dog owners and their pooches met to socialize, share tips and tricks and have fun in the sun.

CNNGo Dogs meetup kiss rest

Roy Chen, 23, relaxes with his dogs Lucky and Kaixin during the Shanghai DogNet meeting at Hua Ting Village.

The success of these meetings is indicative of the status of dogs in Shanghai. What started in 2006 as an informal arrangement between a few friends to walk their dogs together has now burgeoned into a monthly meeting of more than 100 owners and their pooches, with organized bus pools, competitions, and sponsorship from pet related companies.

“Dogs are like people,” said group organizer Liu Ye. “They get lonely and these meetings let dogs communicate with each other.”

Having a dog also provides an important sense of companionship for their owners, especially in a large, fast-paced city like Shanghai.

“This is such a big city,” said native Xia Qiren. “It has more people but less human contact… Having a dog can make you feel less lonely.”

CNNGo Dogs AiNi shop elderly

Xia Qiren sits with her dog, Aini, at the convenience store she runs.

Xia, 56, runs a small convenience store with her husband, Huang HeSheng.

Their four-year old Chihuahua Aini is a regular fixture at the store. “Some of our customers love dogs and will play with her,” Xia said. “There are also some people who are afraid of dogs, but we don’t worry about that. We won’t give up our dog because some people are afraid.”

This sentiment is typical for Shanghai’s dog owners who will often go to great lengths to make sure their companion is well cared for.

CNNGo Dogs grooming parlour parlor

Yusuke Masaki (foreground) grooms MoMo, while Si Wenyi attends to JoJo at MeiYu Pet Salon.

“Shanghai people see dogs as an extension of their personality,” said Su ShanShan. “It’s just like girls who are always changing their hair style. Pet owners want to change their dog’s hair too.”

But not all of Shanghai’s furry friends are as lucky as JojJo, MoMo and Sophie whose routine includes monthly visits to the pet salon. At the Shanghai Small Animal Protection Association (SSAPA) around 30 dogs (and 12 cats) are waiting to find an owner who will pamper and protect them.

CNNGo Dogs Shanghai Small Animal Protection Association shelter

Gong Lei, an employee of the SSAPA, hugs Lele, one of the shelter’s residents.

“Its very hard to find new homes for the dogs especially the older and bigger dogs,” said Gong Lei.

The shelter is running at capacity and is struggling to provide high quality care for their animals in the face of high running costs. “We need help immediately,” said Gong.

But Shanghai’s dog population is lucky to have so many people who are committed owners and careers.

When Gong Lei first read out about the SSAPA two years ago, she went to the shelter the next day to volunteer and was later offered a full time job.

“I really enjoy working at the shelter,” Gong said. “I get to spend all my time with the animals and that makes me happy.”



Jack Zhang contributed to this article.

For more information about the Shanghai Small Animal Protection Association contact Jane Su at helptheanimals@yahoo.cn or 13621746899.

For more information about Shanghai DogNet’s monthly meetings contact Leo Zhan at 13774256818 or Chris Zhang at 13917614885.

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